Guide: Steve Braine
The tour was a great success overall, despite the impact of the drought, which influenced the range of species observed. Most of the key species were recorded, with the only exception being the elusive Hartlaub's Spurfowl. We spotted two species of snake, three lizard species, and one Terrapin. In total, 162 bird species and 28 mammal species were recorded, which is impressive given the drought conditions and the area covered! A particular highlight was the unusually high number of desert-adapted African Elephants. As always, Etosha delivered with sightings of African elephants, Black and White Rhinos, Lions, and abundant plains game. Below is a day-by-day summary of species observed.
Day 1: Windhoek - Waterberg Plateau National Park
Upon disembarking the flight, we traveled via Okahandja to Waterberg, where we stayed for two nights. Along the way, we enjoyed some roadside birding and continued birdwatching upon our arrival at the NWR resort before dinner. After dinner, we visited the nearby campsite and were fortunate to spot both African Scops and White-faced Scops Owls; on our return, we also saw a Rufous-cheeked Nightjar on the road. Among the mammals observed were the Chacma Baboon and Damara Dik-dik.
Noteworthy bird sightings included Acacia Pied Barbet, Greater-striped Swallow, Cardinal Woodpecker, Violet-eared Waxbill, African Red-eyed Bulbul, Groundscraper Thrush, Red-billed Spurfowl, Rosy-faced Lovebirds, Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) and Laughing Doves, Grey Go-away Birds, Purple (Rufous-crowned) Roller, Pearl-spotted Owl, and Southern-masked Weavers. A standout moment was a beautiful Anchieta's Cobra, which we encountered on the gravel road as we headed toward Etosha.
Day 2: Waterberg Plateau National Park
An early morning hike up the mountain slopes rewarded us with fantastic views of the Rockrunner, where we witnessed two birds engaged in a lively territorial display. Other species spotted included the Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Green-winged Pytilia, White-browed Scrub Robin, White-browed Sparrow Weaver, Black-throated Canary, African Palm Swift, and Rock Martin.
During an afternoon drive, we encountered Cape Glossy, Pale-winged, and Burchell's Starlings, as well as Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters. Near a sprinkler on the lawn, we observed Violet-eared Waxbill, Pririt Batis, Marico Sunbird, Southern White-crowned Shrike, Rattling Cisticola, Southern Masked Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, Red-billed Firefinch, Crimson-breasted Shrike, and Southern Grey-headed Sparrows. We also saw Damara, Southern Yellow-billed, and African Grey Hornbills.
The bird of the day was a Red-crested Korhaan, which put on an impressive display by strutting across the road with its crest raised, following a shy female. Other highlights included sightings of Greater Kudu females crossing the road, as well as Steenbok, Angolan Giraffe, Warthogs, and a brief glimpse of a Slender Mongoose.
Day 3: Waterberg Plateau National Park - Eastern Etosha National Park
After breakfast, we traveled towards Etosha National Park, passing through Otjiwarongo, Otavi, and Tsumeb, arriving at Namutoni within the park for a two-night stay. Along the way, we spotted a perched Wahlberg's Eagle, a stunning Lilac-breasted Roller, and the highlight-a pair of Bradfield's Hornbills.
Once in Namutoni, we enjoyed lunch and took a short rest before setting off on an afternoon game drive. The drive offered an unforgettable moment as a mother Black Rhino and her calf crossed the road right in front of us! We also saw various plains game, including Springbok, Oryx, Burchell's Zebra, Angolan Giraffe, and later, a solitary male Black Rhino.
Bird sightings were plentiful and included Southern Ant-eating Chat, Sabota Lark, Rock Martin, Fork-tailed Drongo, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, Blue Waxbills, Banded Martin, Common Ostrich, Kori Bustards, Northern Black (White-quilled) Korhaans, Gabar Goshawk, Pale Chanting Goshawks, and an accommodating Red-necked Falcon. A pair of White-backed Vultures was also seen perched in a Makalani palm tree along the way.
After dinner, the floodlit waterhole provided another highlight, with many African Elephants coming to drink, making for a perfect end to the day.
Day 4: Eastern Etosha National Park
An early morning drive rewarded us with our first lion sightings-two males and a female in estrus. We observed them for a while, hoping for some interesting interactions, but they remained peaceful.
Next, we visited several waterholes. At Andoni waterhole, we saw numerous Namaqua and Burchell's Sandgrouse coming in to drink. Other species observed here included Red-billed Teal, Red-breasted Swallows, migrant Little Stints, Double-banded Courser, Crowned Lapwing, Blacksmith's Lapwing, Kittlitz's Plover, and several Lappet-faced Vultures soaring overhead, along with our first distant sighting of a Bateleur. A surprise highlight was spotting six Woolly-necked Storks at Rietfontein waterhole.
Around the campgrounds, we encountered Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Black-backed Puffback, Long-billed Crombec, and Marico Flycatcher. On the Andoni plains, vast herds of Blue Wildebeest mixed with Springbok, Oryx, and a few solitary Angolan Giraffes created an impressive scene. In the neighboring grasslands, we spotted African Pipits, Eastern Clapper Larks, and Desert Cisticolas, rounding out a rewarding day of sightings.
Day 5: Eastern Etosha - Halali
Today we traveled to Halali camp, stopping at several waterholes along the way. Our first sighting was a Black Rhino mother and calf out on the open plains just west of camp. At two of the waterholes, we spotted Black Crakes, as well as Little Grebe, Cape Teal, Egyptian Geese, and South African Shelduck. A lively interaction between a Little Grebe and an African Rock Python provided great entertainment, but the highlight was a pair of White-headed Vultures swooping in for a drink, alongside our first pair of African Hawk Eagles.
Throughout the drive, we encountered numerous Black-faced Impalas, African Elephants, a young pair of lions, Angolan Giraffe, and various plains game. Around Halali camp, we caught a brief glimpse of a Bare-cheeked Babbler, along with sightings of Southern White-crowned Shrikes, and Damara, Southern Yellow-billed, and African Grey Hornbills.
The day ended spectacularly after dinner at the waterhole, where a magnificent scene unfolded with African Elephants, Black Rhinos, and a family of Spotted Hyenas gathering to drink-truly a "greatest show on earth" moment.
Day 6: Halali - Southern Etosha NP
We made our way to Okaukuejo camp for lunch, stopping at several waterholes along the route. Numerous animals and birds were observed, but the real spectacle unfolded at Gemsbokvlakte. Here, vast herds of Springbok mingled with Oryx, Angolan Giraffe, and other plains game, creating an impressive sight.
A cooperative White Rhino arrived and eventually settled in the cool mud, while two male lions, unfazed by the midday heat, remained motionless as we and a crowd of other tourists watched. New bird sightings along the route and at the waterholes included Chestnut-backed and Grey-backed Sparrow-larks, Red-capped Larks, Black Crows, and Red-headed Finches. We also saw our first Red Hartebeest and Eland, adding to the day's highlights.
Day 7 & 8: Kaokoland
On our departure, we needed to leave early as Patty had to catch a shuttle to Windhoek. We dropped her off at Anderson's Gate before heading to Khowarib Lodge in Damaraland for a two-night stay. Along the Grootberg Pass, we stopped for lunch and spotted two stunning Kudu bulls on the mountainside, along with our first Hartmann's Mountain Zebras. Further down the pass, we made a brief stop and were thrilled to call in a pair of Herero Chats-our special find for the day!
During our two nights at Khowarib, we enjoyed excursions in and around the area, where we saw many desert-adapted African Elephants and more Hartmann's Mountain Zebras. New bird sightings included Augur Buzzard, Verreaux's Eagle, Olive (Madagascar) Bee-eater, Mourning Dove, Rüppell's Parrot, and Rüppell's Korhaans.
During lunch, we were joined by a Bokmakierie, along with Mountain Wheatears, Familiar Chats, and Cape Wagtails. Just before our departure, we were delighted to see a massive bull elephant peacefully feeding within the campgrounds!
Day 9: Kaokoland - Damaraland
We embarked on a dusty drive to the relatively new Ondjamba Hills Camp, where we stopped for lunch. Along the way, we spotted several desert-adapted African Elephants and Angolan Giraffes, as well as a solitary Kori Bustard-a species not commonly found in this area!
In the afternoon, we took a river drive along the Ugab River bed, where we encountered a large troop of Chacma Baboons. We also caught brief glimpses of Monteiro's Hornbill, Damara, Southern Yellow-billed, and African Grey Hornbills. Additional sightings included a few Bare-cheeked Babblers, Brubru, Violet Woodhoopoe, African Hawk Eagles, and some Lesser Masked Weavers.
Day 10: Damaraland
Another excursion down the Ugab River provided a variety of species, and we enjoyed better views of the highlights from the previous day, including Violet Woodhoopoe and Bare-cheeked Babbler. We then embarked on a dusty drive through the small mining town of Uis before arriving in Omaruru for lunch. Afterward, we continued on to Ondudu for the night.
A short stroll around the camp revealed our first Rock Hyrax (Dassie) and a few bird species we had seen previously. New sightings included Cape Bunting (which we also spotted the following morning), Familiar Chat, Mountain Wheatear, Green-winged Pytilia, Monteiro's Hornbill, and Pririt Batis. During dinner, we were treated to the sight of Freckled Nightjars. At the camp waterhole, we had excellent views of a Dassie Rat, Damara Dik-dik, a solitary Chacma Baboon, and later in the evening, a pair of African Porcupines joined us during dinner.
Day 11: Damaraland - Swakopmund
We drove via the Erongo Mountains and Spitzkoppe en route to Swakopmund. Along the way, we spotted Damara Dik-dik, Angolan Giraffe, Greater Kudu, Hartmann's Mountain Zebra, and Steenbok. Birdwatching was rewarding as we enjoyed excellent views of the White-tailed Shrike, the last of the specials we hoped to see! In the Swakopmund area, we also encountered a Chestnut-banded Plover.
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